For those
fascinated by Crusader legends and lore, the
castles of Karak and Shobak are a must. Both of
them are along the scenic King's Highway, the
historic road stretching from Amman to Aqaba.
KARAK
Approaching Karak,
you pass first through Wadi Mujib, a precipitous
canyon l,000 metres deep, guaranteed to set the
mood for your visit. The fort itself is a dark
maze of stone-vaulted halls and endless
passageways. The best preserved are underground,
and to be reached through a massive door (ask at
the ticket office). The castle in itself is more
imposing than beautiful, though it is all the
more impressive as an example of the Crusaders'
architectural military genius.
Karak's most famous occupant was Reynald de
Chatillon, whose reputation for treachery,
betrayal and brutality is unsurpassed. When
Baldwin II died, his son, a 13-year-old leper,
sued for peace with Saladin. The Leper King,
however, died without an heir, and in stepped
Reynald, who succeeded in winning the hand of
Stephanie, the wealthy widow of Karak's
assassinated regent. He promptly broke the truce
with Saladin, who returned with a huge army,
ready for war. Reynald and King Guy of Jerusalem
led the Crusader forces and suffered a massive
defeat. Reynald was taken prisoner and beheaded
by Saladin himself, marking the beginning of the
decline in Crusader fortunes. The castle was
enlarged with a new west wing added by the
Ayyubids and Mamluks.
SHOBAK
A lonely reminder
of former Crusader glory is Shobak Castle, less
than an hour north of Petra. Once called "Mont
Real", Shobak dates from the same turbulent
period as Karak. It is perched on the side of a
mountain, with a grand sweep of fruit trees
below. The castle's exterior is impressive, with
a forbidding gate and encircling triple wall.
Despite the precautions of its builder, the
fortress fell to Saladin only 75 years after it
was raised. Inscriptions by his proud successors
appear on the castle wall.
WHAT TO SEE
The Crusader
Castles: Karak and Shobak.
Karak Archaeological Museum, tel. (03) 2351216,
hours 08:00-17:00, is in the west wing of the
castle. Admission included in entry fee for
castle.
Visitors' Centre, tel. (03) 2354263.
Mazar Islamic Museum, of near Karak tel. (03)
2370319. Collection of items representing
Islamic civilisation and culture. Hours
08:00-17:00. Admission free.
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